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Adam Khalil

Timeless, traditional, and top of its class: the Japanese selvedge denim

Why you should know about the Japanese selvedge denim: the quintessential benchmark of quality streetwear


Originally created for the frontier, whether worn by cowboys, miners, or farmers, denim has been a popular fabric for centuries. It has assimilated into people’s everyday wardrobes around the world in every facet of fashion. Although commonly perceived as a classic Americana piece, denim connoisseurs and enthusiasts have flocked overseas to the quality and craftsmanship of Japanese designers.


The history of denim in Japan showcases the unfolding of an iconic cultural evolution as quality textile innovation ahead of its time combines with traditionally standard casual workwear. This phenomenon first came to be in the wake of World War II, when many American soldiers who left Japan parted ways with many of their belongings, among them being the classic fabric. These items would then be collected and resold in various street markets, where the public first began to notice the scarce product that became more and more desirable. Upon its initial exposure, many pop-culture figures, rock and roll stars, and motorcycle brands, such as Marlon Brando, Elvis Presley, and Harley Davidson, paved the way for a surge in Japanese counter-culture. Younger generations looked to the U.S. for an iconic stand-alone piece to build an “over the edge” lifestyle and rebel against an established order.


Because of the growing popularity of the product in foreign markets, American manufacturers began to mass-produce denim in the late 1960s. This led costs to come down as quality followed suit, letting go of older shuttle looms that required hours of labor and a high level of attention to detail. Manufacturers then decided to replace their original methods with projectile looms that let go of high-quality durability and embraced quick and efficient production. The imported American brands’ lower-quality fabrics, dyes, and poor seams led Japanese designers to create their own manufactured denim which introduced selvedge denim to the scene.

Toyoda Automatic Loom Works. Credits: Redcast Heritage Goods

Selvedge denim, made on a shuttle loom, creates a narrower fabric with a tighter weave that lacks loose strings which results in a more rigged edge and finished hem. The fabric has increased durability and heavy weight that emphasizes the fine attention to detail and craftsmanship of each piece. Although extremely stiff when first bought, and expensive and tough to find, selvedge denim is a worthwhile investment that breaks in after several months. It creates a relaxed feel and finish that illustrates a long-lasting and deep-rooted appreciation for the artistry of the piece.


A.P.C. Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear. Credits: Vogue Runway

ABLANKPAGE Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2023. Credits: Runway Magazines

Selvedge denim has gained popularity in both value and appreciation in the wake of a rise in vintage wear and apparel, underscoring the importance of heritage brands and classic pieces. This product’s resurgence of demand shows how people grew more aware of the genuine quality and authenticity of archive fashion. Almost all selvedge denim around the world is produced in Japan, with America’s last selvedge denim plant coming to a close in 2017. This highly sought-after product now presents itself as a wide-ranging selection to interested buyers, whether in the form of local Japanese artisans, or giant factories such as Karubo. Selvedge denim maintains the status quo of legitimacy and genuineness as a lifestyle fashion item and a timeless investment in one’s wardrobe.


Adam Khalil is a blog writer for Revolution. This article was edited by Meliha Ural.


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